Ow.

Friends, Romans and Countrymen.

I am having the time of my life. So far, I have walked about 150km, since last Monday. My pinky toe developed a blister which swelled to about 5 times the usual size of the toe. I had to drain it but the needle slipped. The thing exploded. Then a knight from the Order of St John (older than and surviving the Knights Templar, 12th century thing, and of St John's Ambulance fame) repaired it and poured disinfectant into the wound. That really f*cking hurt. He then tickled my foot to cheer me up and I cracked up laughing. I've taken photos of it so after this trip I'll be uploading the 'scenic route'.

The peregrinos (pilgrims) are like the walking wounded. Some of them have walked from Belgium, Paris and Denmark. There are bandages and plasters and anti-septic lotions left right and centre. We´ve all developed rather strange ways of walking.

The scenary is just breath taking. The albergues (hostals) are good fun. More or less 5 euros a night. The other day, my friends and I could not get into the main hostal. Consequently we were re-directed to a private hostal. We had to pay 12 euros but it included breakfast. A car arrived to drive us there because it was as off the beaten track as off the beaten track could be, and we'd already walked about 30km (20 miles) in 40 degree heat. We didn't know what to expect. Much to our pleasure, we ended up in a 16th century castle with real beds and a good food store. I cooked for the 5 of us and we all slept in real beds. It was incredible. Again, photos will follow.

My friends and I consist of the following. Simon the Kiwi, Dara the Irishman, Christian the German (also a doctor and rather useful) and Checkie from Kenya. Checkie has lived her whole life in Kenya, but in an English colony. She's a quentisential Englishwoman who also speaks swahili and lives in a tree house. She's 61, proficient at yoga and walks faster than me. The other day, during a stiff climb, she declared she would not stop for a rest until she found tea. These are my friends. We've discovered we enjoy each other's company and have spent the last few days together. The magic of the Camino truly is that you meet who you are supposed to meet. And I have.

The way is not flat. It was flat for some time today which was like a day off. But otherwise this is full on trekking up and down. We've braved heat and thunder storms so far. Coming up is the Masetta. It is a desert. For 30km a day more or less, there are no cafes, no water fountains and nothing but hot summer sun. It takes 3 days to cross the Masetta. I keep thinking of Lawrence of Arabia. Some people have been leaving before sun rise with torches to have a cool walk. It's strange - I feel like I'm on another planet and then I come to a town like this and everything is modern. Extraordinary.

There are several chapters I want to write, but I'm afraid I can't do that until I return to Madrid in early July. I'm writing in a note book. It's not just the expense of connecting to the internet, but the time I need to write. Now is not the time. I'm having some of the most incredible experiences of my life, and though I'm making notes, I'd be a fool to spend an hour on the internet when I have another world full of magic to be in.

Everyone should attempt this walk in their lifetime if possible. It is more than a walk. It's another reality. And it's good fun. It is usual to walk from 6am to 12noon more or less, check in at the hostal, shower, sleep, eat, do yoga and talk with amazing people. These people are motivated not by greed or materialism, but by a desire to connect with the world and its people. Most are healers of some kind. All are eager to help each other and do the best they can - be the best they can. If I could, I'd be walking this walk for the rest of my life.

I must go - it's 6pm. Dinner time. I've been getting up at sunrise (5am-5.30am) and trying to eat a substantial breakfast. We start walking at around 6am-6.30am. Lunch was at 9.20am today. I urinated in a vineyard so avoid Rioja 2007. I absolutely could not help it. There were no toilets for 10 miles. I flew along today - we finally found a cafe and downed some coffee. I also put on my mp3 player and listened to dance music to get my groove on as I didn't sleep too well last night because of the storm and a yappy dog which I wanted to kill. Madonna and caffeine sorted me out and after 2 hours my feet were numb so the pain couldn't hold me back. Super.

And now, it's time to find a meal which has the necessary nutrients for a pilgrim. Or a penguin as we call ourselves because we all walk like penguins in the evenings after a hard day's walk.

I don't have time to find out how to spell quintessential. That might be it. Let me know.

The next entry may not be for some time. Sorry, but I have a journey to make and extraordinary things to do before spending the rest of my life being normal again.

Ciao.